Shirt



(No Model.) S. DEUTSGH.

SHIRT.

No. 529,546. Patented Nov. 20, 1894.

min-M55555 IN V ENTEJFI Um'rnn States Patent street SIGMUND DEUTSOH, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

SHIRT.-

SPEGIFIGATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 529,546, dated November 20, 1894.

Application filed April 17, 1894:. Seria1No.507,826. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, SIGMUND DEUTSCH, a citizen of the United States, residing at Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain 'new and useful Improvements in Shirts, of

which the following is a specification.

My invention has relation to machine made, as distinguished from hand-made, dress and other shirts and has for its object the provision of certain new and useful improvements whereby a stronger, neater, better fitting and less expensive garment may be produced. IVithin the last decade, shirts have been largely and at present are almost universally made and laundered by machinery and, to stand the pull and strain incident to washing and ironing in this way, the samemust be particularly strong. Heretofore, in the manufacture of shirts of this class, it has been the custom, in order to secure the necessary fullness, to gather the back for its full width, while sewing it at its edge to the yoke of the garment; but, owing to the impossibility of gathering the goods uniformly, the difficulty of stitching every fold while gathering, and the irregularity of thickness through which the stitching passes, without the exercise of more care than the selling price of the shirt will warrant, said back, at this point, is not as well adapted to withstand the strain to which it is subjected as it might otherwise be. Hence, in the stretching of the shirt over the bosom -board, preliminary to running it through the ironing machine, the back is apt to be and frequently is torn away from the yoke, particularly where the material of which it is composed is of gingham, lnadras or other light shirtings, the folds of the gathered portion of said back, when so ironed, being, in any event, so flattened out as to present an exceedingly unsightly appearance, which renders the garment to a certain degree unsalable, necessitating the picking out or raising of each such fold, by hand, separately thereafter, which is unnecessarily expensive. Besides, the yoke, being much heavier and stiffer than the back of the shirt, has nothing to prevent its riding up under the action of the shoulder-blades of the wearer,

causing the vest or other outer garment to bulge between the shoulders.

My invention is designed and adapted to overcome these objections and consists in the combination with a shirt-back gathered only at the sides or shoulder portions, where the fullness is most needed and the gathering ordinarily unobserved, of a V shaped vertically tucked reinforce the tucks of which are stitched longitudinally and form practically continuous plies, the same being centrally located on the inner side of and sewed the length of its side edges to said back and extending part-way down and across the same, and at its upper edge inserted between the plies of and sewed its whole length to the lower edge of the yoke of the garment coincidently With the upper edge of said back, affording a uniform body of three additional thicknesses, instead of thicknesses varying from one to three, as heretofore, for the stitching which secures back and yoke together, said reinforce greatly strengthening the shirt at this point, while serving to prevent the the yoke from riding up on the shoulders and marring the fit of the garment, the Whole operation being in full view and requiring no particular care on the part of the operator to secure a hold for such stitching which is sufficient to resist any amount of strain, said reinforce, at its other edges, being sewed to the back between the shoulders and extending considerably below the same, forming, virtually, an extension of the yoke and, by its stiffness, serving to prevent the latter from riding up and marring the lit of the garment, at the same time avoiding the necessity for hand-work on said back after the shirt leaves the ironing machine, While presenting a decidedly attractive appearance through the neck-opening when the same is folded, promoting its salability.

In the accompanying drawings:Figure 1 is a plan view of a shirt back with my improvements applied thereto, and Figs. 2 and 3 similar views of an open back and an open from tshirt, respectively, folded, provided with the improved back and reinforce.

In practice, the tucking or plaiting of which the improved reinforce is made is first produced in long strips, the tucks a thereof being, as aforesaid, closely arranged and stitched longitudinally, as shown at a, and then cut into V shaped or approximately V shaped pieces, as shown at A in Fig. 1, or

other suitable form, for a closed back such as used in a shirt of the character lettered D in Fig. 3, or, for an open back shirt like that shown at B in Fig. 2, into pieces of the same shape as would result from separating the V shaped piece vertically through the center into two equal parts or pieces, one for each side of the opening in the back of such a shirt, as shown at b b. Said piece or pieces, according to the kind of back, are next turned in and sewed, by stitching a a at their side edges to the inner side of the central portion of the particular back to which they are applied, in such position that the upper edge or edges thereof will be even, or about even, With the upper edge of said back, the latter being gathered at the side or shoulder portions, as at c 0', instead of at the middle,

and with its attached reinforce inserted as tucking or plaiting coming out of the ironing machine smooth and regular every time and requiring no further attention.

In lieu of having the ends a a of the reinforce plain, as shown, the tucking or plaiting may be continued out to the extremities thereof, as will be readily understood without further illustration.

I am aware that the back portions of shirts have heretofore been provided on their outer sides with V shaped, plain, reinforcing plies, hence do not wish to be understood to claim the same as my invention.

What I claim as my invention is as follows:

A shirt having its back portion provided with a centrally located, V .shaped, vertically tucked reinforce the folds of which are stitched longitudinally, the same extending part way down and across the inner side of the back portion and being sewed the length of its side edges theretoand at its upper edge interposed between the plies of the neck-yoke and sewed its whole length to the lower edge of the latter coincidently with said back portion, for the purpose specified.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 24th day of February, A. D. 1894.

SIGMUND DEUTSGH.

Witnesses:

WM. L. POWELL, R. DALE SPARHAWK. 

